India 2007

We're in Alleppay now, which is sometimes referred to as the Venice of the East because it's built on a series of canals. We were walking from our guest house and came across a sign for an internet cafe. The sign pointed in the direction of a dirt path alongside one of the smaller canals. Seemed an unlikely place for an internet cafe, but we followed it along and came across a place with very modern terminals. They greeted us exuberantly and gave us chai and sweets. One man was busily snapping photos of us. Turns out this is their grand opening, and we were their very first customers. (Mom and dad, I know how you love the freebies and grand openings - I thought of you).

We caught the train from Podanur on Sunday, but almost missed it... India has seven classes of rail passage, and we couldn't find the one we were supposed to be on (turns out there was a typo on our ticket...). Anyway, we'd gone almost to the end of the VERY long train, and had several people trying to help when suddenly the train started pulling away. (They give you no warning here). One of the gentlemen trying to help said "Madam, it is more important you get on the train now and find your car later." Indeed! The kids can now say they've hopped onto a moving train. Not an easy feat when you've got backpacks on... We ended up in second class (which sounds better than it is - there about five classes before second class). Hard wooden seats and no air conditioning. We were fortunate to have seats offered to us though, and actually had a lot of fun riding in second class to the next stop where we got off and found our car. Made us appreciate our air conditioned car all the more. The trip included the drama of birth: Grady caught a bug in a water bottle and she proceeded to have about 30 babies about five minutes later. You'll have to ask him all about it - it provided hours of entertainment!

Arriving in Cochin, "The Queen of the Arabian Sea", we underwent another kind of transition/culture shock. We have been in a very rural area with no other westerners. Suddenly, we were surrounded by travellers, as well as people wanting to sell us postcards and trinkets. We also had to adjust to much higher prices (although it's all relative - had an incredible plate full of huge prawn done up in a garlic chili sauce for about $2. Outstanding meal). Nonetheless, it is a beautful place. We took the ferry to Fort Cochin where we bought some snapper and prawns from a vendor and had it grilled at a nearby fishfry. We sipped fresh pineapple juice and pomegranate juice while watching the fishermen hauling in their nets. That evening, we saw a performance of Kathakali dance. You'll have to ask Chris to do his impersonation of "Dr. Devlin" who explained the significance of the makeup (which you get to watch them apply if you go early) and all of the movements. We'll try to post photos later today.

Yesterday, we took a heartstopping bus ride to Appellay. The bus had "Super Fast" painted on the front and was precisely as advertised - holy crap! We were at the very back because there was room for our bags there - so we got the full benefit of every bump. Arden liked that part. She also enjoyed the two elephants we saw along the way.

We were met at the bus station by "Mr. Wilson" from whom we were renting a kettu vallam (rice barge style houseboat) for an overnight stay in the backwaters. Woven palm leaves and jute form most of the structure on a teak base. There were two bedrooms and two bathrooms on board, as well as a kitchen where incredible food was prepared for us. (Again, we'll have to post photos - too beautiful to believe). It was meditative and peaceful cruising through the backwater channels, watching life on the river. Among the sights we saw: men diving for mussels, a school canoe transporting uniformed children (all transporation is by water here), women washing their long dark hair (even saw one wash behind her ears - I didn't think anyone actually did that!), man climbing to the heights of a coconut palm, women working in the rice fields sporting colourful umbrella hats, men pulling up mud from the bottom of the canal and loading it into a canoe (to make bricks?), women washing pots and dishes, birds diving for fish, men chopping a palm tree down (one to do the work and three to watch...).

We docked for the night at about 5:00 and agreed to a canoe ride through the smaller canals for one hour - a mistake. While it was beautiful and interesting, our village host spent the entire hour trying to talk us into two hours. We were also greeted by children who sang out "one pen?" and "chocolate" or "coin?" incessantly. The younger ones were coached by their parents...

We returned to our boat to take in a magnificent sunset and a fabulous fish curry. Then we heard fireworks (again, mom, couldn't help but think of you!) and went up to the upper platform (a small viewing post) to watch them. A great evening.

Thanks to all of you who have written or posted comments - it's so great to hear from you. Sorry I don't have time to reply to them all, but please keep them coming - we love hearing from you.